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Warranties are important since defects in construction often don’t show up until well after the last check has cleared. Common ones include drywall cracks and nail pops, concrete and tile cracks, lumps in the carpeting, sticking doors and windows, and leaky flashings, to name a few. Yet another reason to work with a reputable contractor is that he is more likely to honor the warranty and return to fix things, even after the typical one-year warranty has expired.
The terms warranty and guarantee are often used interchangeably and have the same meaning legally. However, as commonly used in construction law:
- A warranty is a written promise (or guarantee) by the manufacturer or contractor to repair or replace a defective product or correct defective workmanship. Most warranties have time limits and other restrictions (limited warranty).
- A guarantee is a more general term, referring to any promise by a manufacturer or contractor that a product or service will be free from defects.
Express vs. Implied Warranties
A warranty can be “express” and written into a contract or “implied” by federal or state laws. For example an Implied Warranty of Merchantability is part of the UCC (Uniform Commercial Code), which is adopted by most states. A warranty of merchantability guarantees that a product conforms to ordinary standards of care as similar goods and that it is fit for the ordinary purposes for which it is used. For example, a garage door that does not open, a chimney that does not vent properly, or a deck that wobbles would most likely not meet this standard, allowing the owner to sue, if it came to that.
All contracts should contain an express warranty that spells out the contractor’s responsibilities after the job is completion. View the Express Warranty clause in our Model Construction Agreement.
Warranty Limitations
Most guarantees and warranties are limited for a period of time and are non-transferrable. Also, all warranties have have limitations and exclusions that, in some cases, render the warranty promise pretty useless. For example, many building product warranties are for the materials only and some further limit their exposure by using a prorated value. Many roofing warranties follow this pattern – so, if your “30-year roofing” fails in 10 years, you may get 50% of the cost of the shingles, and nothing for the labor to install them. Since labor accounts for about two-thirds of the cost of replacement, you may end up with $1,000 toward a $7,000 roofing job.
For example, I recently contacted a window manufacturer about two large 10-year-old windows that had “fogged” due to broken seals in the insulated glass panels. The windows were guaranteed for 20 years, but the seals only for 10. Even if the glass were still under warranty, it would cover only the materials. The cost to remove the sash, install the new glass, and replace the sash was not covered. The same material-0nly limitation is true for a wide variety of building products, including paints and coatings where the labor cost far exceeds the material cost.
Another important limitation of most product and material warranties is that the product must be installed according to the manufacturer’s instructions or the warranty is voided. A manufacturer who is intent on rejecting a warranty claim can usually find some evidence that the installer did not follow every recommended procedure.
The Contractor’s Responsibility
Since you are not in control of the installation, and that it is difficult to establish how something was installed a number of years ago, it’s in your best interest to have the contractor’s warranty cover both the materials and installation. Since the contractor purchased the materials, it should be his responsibility to negotiate with his suppliers, manufacturers, or subcontractors over warranty issues. He also has much more leverage than you with a manufacturer’s rep or subcontractor.
The general contractor’s warranty should also cover all subcontractors’ work, since the contractor hires them, supervises their work, and has a contractual relationship with them. Also, in some cases, it’s unclear which subcontractor caused a problem. Were cracks in the drywall caused by the framing contractor or the drywall installers? It shouldn’t be your problem to figure this out. Plus, your contractual relationship is with the general contractor, not the subs.
Look for at least a one-year warranty on all products and materials installed by the contractor. Most contractors will exclude work or materials provided by the owner or by workers hired independently by the owner (my cousin the plumber), which is a reasonable limitation.
The AIA105 (short-form) Warranty clause reads:
8.5 The Contractor warrants to the Owner and Architect that: (1) materials and equipment furnished under the Contract will be new and of good quality unless otherwise required or permitted by the Contract Documents; (2) the Work will be free from defects not inherent in the quality required or permitted; and (3) the Work will conform to the requirements of the Contract Documents.
Extended Warranties
In many cases, products come with warranties that extend for 10 years or more, well beyond the contractor’s one-year warranty. So when roofing shingles blow off or windows fog up five years after completion, you are left to deal with the manufacturer on your own. This is where the “weasel words” in small print will usually get you. Common limitations are that the manufacturer is responsible for materials only, and those may be further limited by prorating. It’s like a car manufacturer mailing you an engine part that fails – but you have to rip the engine apart to install it.
In addition, the warranty on most products becomes void if the installer did not follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If your contract included the clause that the contractor was to “Install all products and materials according to “manufacturer’s written instructions,” then you may have a leg to stand on if you are denied coverage for that reason. For example, many roofing shingles require felt paper, or equivalent, to be installed under the shingles (a good idea, whether required or not). If your contractor skipped that step and the shingles prematurely buckled and cracked, you would have a strong case to have the original contractor re-do the job at no cost to you.
In some cases, it’s clear-cut that the installer did not follow the instructions. For example, if a roofing shingle requires a vent space below and there is none, then the designer or contractor is at fault. If the exterior trim required that all cut edges be sealed and painted, it should be easy to determine. However, it’s often not clear cut. Was it over 50°F when the paint or adhesive was applied? Was the paint applied to wet wood or below the recommended temperature?
Warranty Procedures
Even though warranties cannot completely ensure that problems will be fairly addressed, you should do everything you can to properly support your claim. That is, make sure you keep the warranties organized and in a safe place, document the dates that the product or material was purchased, installed, and put into use. Pay special attention to high-cost items such as windows, heating and cooling equipment, major appliances, synthetic and composite products (decking, siding, exterior trim), bathtubs and showers, and roof shingles – all products that I’ve seen fail over the years.
Read the fine print and take any necessary steps to keep the warranty valid, such as:
In order to qualify for the benefits under and thereby validate this warranty, the original purchaser must fully complete the attached certificate of registration and mail it to AAA Products Corporation, 100 Main St, Anywhere USA, within thirty (30) days from date of original purchase.
In the event of a problem, document it right away with date-stamped photos, and send a letter to the contractor and/or the supplier or manufacturer, depending on the item and time frame, and keep a copy for your files. It’s always best to start with the contractor, even if the contractor’s warranty period is over. A conscientious contractor will want to know if there are problems with his workmanship or products he has installed, whether or not he is responsible. Even if his warranty has expired, he may choose to help out in the interest of providing good customer service (and getting more work and referrals from you). If it is a product problem, he may have an ongoing relationship with the supplier or regional manufacturer’s rep that can be a great help in reaching a satisfactory outcome.
Bottom line: Warranties can be useful in some circumstances, but often fail to provide true compensation for defects. As the old saying goes, warranties are only as good as the people who make them. The best guarantee that products will perform as planned is to buy quality products with a known track record from a company known to stand behind its products, and then have them installed by a competent, conscientious contractor. You’ll have far fewer problems and a greater likelihood of getting help and satisfaction from suppliers and installers if things do fail over time.
Read more on Warranties and Building Defects.
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Doug Frieze says
How To Proceed with Unscrupulous Roofing Contractor?
The 1st time I hired Roofing Company A in 2010 they did terrible work and left the entire South side of my house leaking, played scheduling games with me until it was too late involving CCB. Had several other Contractors that couldn’t fix the leaking. Then I hired Roofing Company B after interviewing about 18 other Contractors to replace the roof on my Ranch Style house for the 2nd time as I explained to Co. B when I accepted their estimate. I created other documents covering additional items that they signed & dated. Their estimate on August 17, 2021 started around $12,330.00 after they sold me on several other items claiming part of the roofing structure I ended up paying them a total $19, 171.00. Company B stole tools and took all my 2×4 and 2×6 Studs from my Work Shop and then charged me for them? They convinced me that house needed Fascia Board underneath all the new Gutters that I had installed by Royal Gutters in 2020 at that time all my Gutters working great. Company B removed the Gutters adding Fascia Board and didn’t install them correctly causing numerous issues and problems. They also destroyed my Carport Roof which was never a part of their scope of work. They added LeafBlaster Gutter Covers which wasn’t installed correctly damaging the Roofs edging now. Ended up filing complaint with CCB on Sept 1, 2022 resulting with a mediation, then I filed with BBB regarding unresolved warranty issues. I’ve had a Roofing Consultant and 3 other estimates of around $12,000.00 to repair damages Company B created. I’ve communicated with D.O.J. seeking help and advise. In May of 2022m the owner of Company called me on phone threatening me, then came over to my house threatening me. I don’t trust the owner and really think he would have his company do something stupid if they had another opportunity to be at my house. I noticed recently there is another leak that has developed and not sure how I should take care of the problems?
I need to get my house taken care of with the leak, gutters, and gutter covers that Company B caused, I’m quite scared to have them back at my house for fear of retaliation with all the threats and false accusations the company owner filed with BBB. Please help me and advise what I can do? I’m a Senior Citizen with fixed income and already have over $45,000.00 tied up on my roof with several other jobs I need to hire contractors for. I’m scared to death for the fear of other Contractors taking advantage of me, what do I do?
buildingadvisor says
Sorry to hear about your situation — sounds very frustrating, stressful, and expensive — not what you want from a roof repair.
If any of the problems that occurred were cause by defective materials, you may be able to go directly to the supplier, wholesaler, or manufacturer to file a warranty claim. However, it sounds like your problems were caused by the contractors, not their materials.
Given all the problems you have had with Company B, it sounds like you should terminate the contract with them and find a new, reputable contractor to complete the job.
To recover money already spent with Companies A and B. would require legal proceedings (arbitration or litigation). A lawyer could help you evaluate the cost and timetable of legal proceedings and what would be the likely outcome. Whether, in the end, a lawsuit would be worth your investment of time and money (as well as the aggravation) would be up to you to decide.
Legal action around money should always be viewed as a business decision. Only proceed if it makes business sense. Sometimes it’s better to cut your losses and just move on.
In looking for a new contractor, absolutely check at least three references. Check with the contractor licensing board and BBB for complaints. Also find a contractor who seems professional, knowledgeable, and personable – someone you feel you can work with to resolve any problems that might arise.
Finally, have a good written contract that spells out the scope of work, a reasonable payment schedule, warranty, and other critical contract clauses. A good contract will not guarantee good workmanship, but at least provides a clear roadmap for how to resolve problems should they arise in the course of the job.
If your roofing consultant wrote a specification to complete the job, you may want to pay him to inspect the work and make payment subject to acceptance of the work by your or your representative – the consultant.
Doug Frieze says
Thank you for getting back to me. I thought I did a thorough job reviewing all the different Contractors, didn’t consider nearly 20 questions that I interviewed would all be lies! They told me they were well established, found out I was one of their first customers in Oregon. I’m reluctantly excepting the fact that I need to find another company. Quite honestly I don’t trust anyone anymore nor believe, honesty and good workmanship is no longer available this day & age, evidently I’m not capable of finding good Contractors. I will never trust anyone involved with Angie’s list, that’s a desperate situation for a Contractors.
Ann V, says
Is Contractor Responsible For Wasps Getting Into Porch?
After a number of wasp stings last summer (ambulance/epi pen) I decided to screen in under the top deck of my porch. I made it clear to the contractor that my goal was to be wasp free there, anyway. I bought the snapp kit and he did the work, charging me for lumber (no itemized bill though I asked) and labor of 2 1/2 days. The carpentry is ok, but he left a hole in the screen which he fixed at my request when getting his check.
However, I have had carpenter bees, flies, stink bugs, etc., get in. It’s been too cool for wasps till now. I have caulked corners, added stripping under the bottom board he says he left for drainage, and sealed the posts through the deck above as best I could. I can’t reach all the corners where there are gaps and have not heard back from him after my second call — first one he suggested I sit outside and watch to see where they’re coming in. I haven’t caught them yet — about one bee a day is getting in. What is the contractor’s responsibility? thanks
buildingadvisor says
There is no black-and-white answer as to who is responsible. If you have a written contract that states that the enclosure will be free of flying insects, then it clearly the contractor’s responsibility to accomplish that. If you verbally agreed to the same, it is still binding contact, but much more difficult to enforce.
If, on the other hand, the contractor said he would do his best to keep out insects, and installed the product which you bought in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and met reasonable quality standards, then you may have difficulty getting him to put in the extra time and materials needed to seal every last hole. It’s possible that the insects are entering through points unrelated to his work.
The fact that jumbo-sized carpenter bees are getting in suggests to me that there are still some obvious holes in the porch – whether or not they are the contractor’s contractual responsibility to fix.
Negotiation is probably your best strategy. Say you will pay for any extra caulking or other materials needed to seal additional holes if he will provide the labor.
If despite his and your best efforts, bugs are still getting in, I suggest having an exterminator take a look. They are very good at finding and sealing the tiny entry points of all sorts of undesirable critters. They can add pesticide or not at your discretion.
Consider sprinkling or spraying a solution of boric acid, which is harmless to humans and pets, but amazingly effective against a wide array of critters. I have used boric acid successfully with carpenter ants and silverfish, but it should also work with carpenter bees and wasps.
MR. ISHAQUE NOOR says
How Do I Transfer Home & Equipment Warranties?
I have a building which was constructed 3 years ago. I have some 6 different warranties on roof right up to the AC and other fittings etc. which are still valid for another 5 to 10 years and beyond. These warranties have been issued by various sub-contractors employed by the Main contractor on the building. These warranties have been issued in my name.
I am now selling the building and wish to transfer the warranties to the new owner.
My questions for your guidance are:
1. What is the recognized procedure of transferring such warranties to the new owner.
2. Will these warranties be formally transferred or would it be sufficient just ti hand them over to the new owner.
3. Would these warranties need to be re-issued in the name of the new owner to be valid.
4. What are the rules of transfer of warranties in such a situation and under what regulations.
Thank you
buildingadvisor says
In the U.S., there is very minimal federal law governing warranties for homes, materials, and equipment. So these are governed by the states with little consistency. Also, there are different laws governing “express” written warranties like the ones you are transferring and “implied” warranties, which require that any building sold be habitable and built properly to reasonable standards.
For the most part, each express warranty has to be looked at separately for the terms, limitations, duration, and right of transfer. Most home warranties are transferrable with limitations. For example, they may be transferrable only for a limited period of time or to only one buyer.
Many warranties require notification of the manufacturer of the sale of the home and the name and contact information of the new owner who will be covered under the transferred warranty.
It is best therefore to read each warranty and then contact the product manufacturer for the proper procedure to transfer the warranty. Unfortunately, there is no standard procedure that will work for all warranties.
Toby says
Should I Buy Extended Warranty on Bath Remodel?
I’m wondering how much would it be ok to pay if I wanted to extend the contractors warranty for a longer period of time for a bathroom remodel . ? Thanks in advance .
buildingadvisor says
There are too many variables to toss out a number. Some issues to consider:
What does the contractor’s standard warranty cover? Is it limited in some ways, or unlimited? Does in include both materials and labor? Is the contractor someone you trust to honor the warranty?
The warranty for a bathroom remodel, has two components: Materials and workmanship.
In most cases, name-brand bathroom fixtures and materials will be warranted by the manufacturer for defects for an extended period, ranging from a few years to “limited” lifetime warranties. The warranties are typically for the materials only, not the labor to install them, and are usually voided if the installation was deemed faulty. Material warranties are for defective products, not normal wear and tear, or damage from misuse.
The contractor, on the other hand, is guaranteeing their workmanship. The contractor’s warranty may and may not cover the labor required to replace a faulty fixture, assuming their workmanship was proper. Again, it is important to understand what is covered by the warranty and what is excluded. Warranties might offer different coverage for different types of problems, such as fixtures, tile work, and plumbing. For example, does the extended warranty you are considering cover fixtures and materials that are no longer warrantied by the manufacturer?
Once you understand exactly what is covered, you can decide whether the peace of mind is worth the cost of the extended warranty, In my experience, name-brand plumbing fixtures rarely have manufacturing defects. If there are problems with fixtures, plumbing, cabinets, or shower doors and enclosures, they usually show up within the first year. Ceramic tile problems, such as cracks, may take longer to appear as they are sometimes related to building settlement. If you have a radiant floor or other complex building details that might put stress on the floor (and be expensive to fix), that might make an extended warranty more attractive.
Consumer organizations such as Consumers Union say that extended warranties are usually a poor investment. There are certainly exceptions, but I’m not sure a standard bathroom remodel is one of them.
mano shahlavi says
Bad Experience With Structural Defects Insurance
I had disaster experience with CRL Structural Defects Insurance in the UK. I lost a lot of money and am not sure if I trust companies anymore that offer 10-year building warranties.