Q: Several roofing contractors have provided quotes to repair or replace our 30-year-old concrete tile roof. Some are saying we should replace the roof and others are recommending repair.
With replacing there are so many material options that it is extremely difficult to determine which way to go.
How can I get advice independent advice on what to do? — Anthony
A: There is no simple answer to your question. The best option depends on many variables, including your budget, climate, and taste in roofing materials. Whether to repair or replace depends on the conditions of the existing tiles, underlayment, and flashing, as well as your climate and how well the roof was maintained..
Concrete tiles can last 50 years or more under ideal conditions. If the tiles are still in very good condition after 20 years, you can expect at least another 20 to 30 years of service.
Flashings and Underlayment
Flashings and underlayment rarely last as long as the roofing tiles. The most common flashing metal is galvanized steel. The gauge of the steel and the thickness of the galvanized coating, along with environmental conditions, determine the material’s longevity. The IRC building code calls for minimum 26-gauge steel with a G90 galvanized coating.
Under good conditions, heavy-gauge galvanized flashings can last 25 years or more, but may start failing in as little as 15 years. Air pollution and salt spray in coastal areas will accelerate corrosion. Also leaving debris on the roof that traps moisture will speed up corrosion. Premium metals will last longer. For the best performance, use copper and stainless-steel which will last indefinitely.
Underlayment choices are probably the most confusing. I would avoid traditional asphalt felt as the quality has diminished over the years. It’s worth spending extra for a premium underlayment.
Synthetic underlayments are very popular with roofing contractors as they are easy to install and provide a walkable surface. There are many choices and lots of marketing claims, but not much real-world performance data and no industry standards to go by. To some extent, you get what you pay for, so the thicker, more expensive materials are usually better. Synthetics tend to be very waterproof, but do not seal well around nail penetrations, which can lead to leakage with tile roofs.
Modified-asphalt underlayments are a good choice. They are similar to asphalt felt, but the rubber additives provide better strength, durability, and longevity. Most seal well around nail penetrations. A double layer of rubber-modified asphalt is a very good choice.
Self-adhesive underlayments are considered the best choice by many roofers. They create an impenetrable waterproof layer that seals completely around any penetrations. One downside is that removal is difficult or impossible when re-roofing, so your choices are to replace the sheathing or leave the old underlayment in place. Go with a well-established brand with a proven track record as not all products work as advertised. Read more on peel-and-stick underlayments.
Concrete, Clay, or Composite Tile
In choosing a tile material, the most common choices are concrete and clay. Clay tile are more expensive and more prone to breakage, but will generally outlast concrete tiles by several decades.
In recent years, a number of metal and composite materials have been introduced that either replace or mimic traditional tiles. In general, both metal and composite materials are lighter than clay or concrete, which may be an issue in homes where the roof structure is not designed for tile. Metal and composite materials are also less prone to breakage. Metal is very durable, but can be noisy during rainstorms.
The durability and lifespan of composites will vary with the specific product. Composites often make use of recycled content and may include various types of synthetic rubber and plastic as well as fiber-cement. Pay carful attention to warranties and look for products with a proven track record. Also, purchase some extra material for future repairs as matching the style and color 10 years from now could be difficult.
Comparing costs, warranties, and appearance can help you decide. Also the advice of an experienced roofing contractor who installs multiple materials can help you sort out the pros and cons of each type.
Repair vs. Replace
As for repair vs. replace, that is largely a financial decision. If the repair work comes with a good warranty, it is certainly a viable option. It’s like an old car: they are worth repairing up to the point where it’s hard to justify putting more money into the old junker. In some cases, replacing the underlayment and flashings while salvaging the tiles with a “lift and relay” job can make sense. But if the tiles are more than 20 or 30 years old, it rarely makes economic sense to reuse them. — Steve Bliss, Editor, BuildingAdvisor.com
Dave Spang says
IS Bid To Repair Tile Roof Too High?/h2>
Hi. I live in Orange County, CA. I have an older concrete tile roof. I don’t remember when it was installed, and I can’t find records. Estimate 20-30 years. Somewhere in there.
The tiles are all fine. The valley ended up with problems and has caused moderate damage in the eaves underneath. There also is a suspected leak in the N corner of the garage.
A recent bid was done. When the owner was here I asked him for a “ball park” number and was told $4000. I am aware of course that this is informal.
The bid he sent is significantly higher, and leaves out the repair on the damaged eaves, and the suspected garage leak.
I had also asked for diverters over doors (entry, patio, garage side door) and for an old satellite dish to be removed. These aren’t on the bid either. Minor aspects, but seems a little odd to not see this on here.
Here is the bid. It doesn’t seem as thorough as the one above, and is nearly as expensive as the above bid for an entire roof!
VALLEY AREA
1. Remove approximately 25’ of tile at the valley area and set aside for
reinstallation.
2. Remove the old deteriorated 30 lb ASTM underlayment and install new 30 lb
ASTM underlayment using Simplex fasteners.
3. Replace all removed tile.
4. Replace any broken tiles in this area.
RAKE WALL
1. Remove approximately 20’ of tile at the rake wall and set aside for reinstallation.
2. Inspect underlayment and replace any damaged underlayment with new 30 lb
ASTM underlayment. Reinstall remove tile. Replace any broken tiles in this area
with new tiles.
RAKE
Rake tiles were not fastened correctly during the original installation. Some are
slanted and others are falling off.
1. Rework the rake area by removing approximately 35 rakes in this area, set
aside for reinstallation.
2. Install or replace any damaged underlayment along the rake using new 30 lb
ASTM underlayment.
3. Reinstall the removed rake tiles in proper fashion, nailing into place.
FIREPLACE:
1. Remove approximately 3-4’ of tile around the fireplace area.
2. Replace any damaged underlayment with new 30 lb ASTM underlayment.
3. Install a double saddle so there will be one saddle for the membrane and one
for the tile which works to waterproof both the membrane and the tile.
4. Reinstall the removed tile.
GENERAL MAINTENANCE
1. Seal all roof protrusions with silicone caulking.
2. Paint all roof protrusions to match the existing roof.
3. Clean all roof work debris and haul away.
JD Clark Roofing will provide a 3 year labor warranty on all areas addressed
above only.
Work will take approximately 3-4 days to complete.
Total Cost: Material and Labor $6.980.00
buildingadvisor says
It’s very difficult to compare the two bids as the details, extent of repairs, and size of the roofs may be very different on the two roofs. The first roof was approximately 1,000 sq. ft. total, and may be a much simpler roof (and smaller) than yours, with no valleys, chimneys, or other roof penetrations.
Still, I agree with you that your bid looks pretty high compared with a the full roof “lift and relay” job in the article above, which includes a higher performance underlayment than 30 lb. felt. Especially in the valley I would want to see a peel-and-stick bituminous membrane.
I would ask your contractor for a revised bid including the other work you had requested. Also get a second bid from another contractor for comparison. You can compare both the price and the specs, which will probably differ.
Provide the second bidder with a written list of all the work you want included in the bid, and you will have a better chance of getting a comprehensive bid. A complete bid for all the work provides much better price control than adding items as “extras” after the job in under way.
Finally, you may want to get a bid for a full lift-and-relay job, especially if you plan to remain the in the house for 10 or more years. It’s the underlayment and flashings that usually fail first on a tile roof, so replacing and repairing these components may buy you 10-20 years of additional service life for a modest upcharge.
ANA says
Please Review Bid to Lift & Relay Tiles
HI THERE. THIS IS A PARTIAL ROOF PROPOSAL. WHAT DO YOU THINK? IT IS A GOOD PLAN OR SHOULD I REQUEST SOMETHING BETTER?
THANK YOU,
All permits and inspections are at additional cost (ARI invoices for exact dollar amount paid).
Excludes necessary attic ventilation to meet current code requirements (see additional cost option below).
We propose to supply and install:
Pull up existing tile saving for reinstallation (see diagram for roof area, which is approximately 1000 sf).
Dry rot will be replaced at a rate of $8.00 per linear foot for 1”x 4” thru 1”x 8” lumber and $150.00 per sheet of ½” plywood. All other lumber will be replaced on a time and materials basis.
One 36” wide sweat sheet of underlayment in valley ways.
Two ply of ASTM rated Fontana “UDL” SBS modified 40# underlayment fastened with plastic top nails.
Mark roof layout and load all necessary materials.
On eaves baked on polyester 2”x 2” drip edge and tile riser metal (color: white).
In valley ways baked on polyester 24” W valley metal (color: brown).
Galvanized sheet metal: top flashing, tile pan, saddles and vent penetration flashings.
Existing concrete tile supplying extra tiles necessary to complete total reset (new tiles will not identically match existing tiles due to weathering and or availability), per manufacturer’s specifications.
Concrete trim pieces on all rakes, hips and ridges, bond with adhesive.
Seal all pipe flashings, paint to match roof color.
To supply and install O’Hagin cloaked attic vents to upgrade ventilation, please add $150.00 each.
Remove all roof related trash and debris and leave job site in broom clean condition.
Five year warranty on workmanship against leakage.
Proposal valid for fifteen days from proposal date.
All of the above work is to be completed according to standard practice for the sum of:
Price: $8,571.00
buildingadvisor says
Yes, this looks like a good proposal in its detailed description of the scope of work and unit pricing of extra work as opposed to open-ended cost-plus pricing for added work. You might want to ask for a best guess as to your final out-of-pocket costs.
A few specifics I would ask about:
Using 15 t0 20 year flashings on a 30-50 year roof does not make much sense. Along these lines, ask about the life expectancy of the concrete tiles. If well maintained, the average life expectancy is about 50 years. If the tiles have less than 20 years left, you might want to price out replacing with new tiles.
Pricing varies a lot by region and job conditions, so I can’t really evaluate your price except to say that it sounds reasonable. However, it’s always a good idea to get at least one more estimate to compare pricing, materials, and the approach to the work.